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City guide

Edinburgh, Scotland

“Auld Reekie”

Scotland's capital is a city of two halves on volcanic rock — a medieval Old Town of closes and a castle on a crag, facing a Georgian New Town of elegant terraces. Add an extinct volcano in the middle and the world's biggest arts festival in August, and it punches far above its size.

Type Capital cityElevation 47 m / 154 ftPopulation 530,000Metro Area Population 900,000Settled 638

Why go

  • The Old and New Towns together are a UNESCO site — you can walk 900 years of city planning in an afternoon.
  • You can climb an extinct volcano, Arthur's Seat, for a Highland-style view without leaving the city.
  • In August the Fringe turns the whole place into a theatre; the rest of the year it is calmer and cheaper.
  • Whisky, hearty food and a serious literary history — this is a UNESCO City of Literature — give the drizzle something to do.

History

Edinburgh grew up the spine of Castle Rock, a defensible volcanic plug, its medieval Old Town packed into tall tenements down the Royal Mile. In the 18th century the draining of the loch and the building of the ordered New Town made it a showpiece of the Scottish Enlightenment — the city of Hume, Smith and Scott. Capital of Scotland through union and devolution alike, it now houses the Scottish Parliament at the foot of the same Royal Mile.

Major sights

The fortress on the rock — crown jewels, the Stone of Destiny, and the One O'Clock Gun. Book ahead; go early to beat the Royal Mile crowds.
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The Royal Mile & closes
The Old Town's spine from castle to palace, threaded with narrow closes and wynds worth ducking into. Free, and the heart of the place.
Outdoor
Arthur's Seat
An extinct volcano in Holyrood Park with a 360° view over city and firth. A 45-minute climb from the Palace — the best free thing in Edinburgh.
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The monarch's official Scottish residence at the foot of the Mile, with Mary, Queen of Scots' chambers and a ruined abbey.
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New Town & Calton Hill
Georgian terraces, Princes Street Gardens below the castle, and the folly-topped Calton Hill for the classic postcard view.
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Dean Village & Water of Leith
A former milling hamlet of tucked-away cottages, ten minutes from Princes Street along a river walk to the modern-art galleries.
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When it rains (often)

National Museum of Scotland
Everything from Dolly the sheep to Pictish stones under a soaring Victorian glass roof — free, huge, and the definitive wet-day move.
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Scottish National Gallery
A compact, first-rate collection on the Mound between the two towns — Titian to the Scottish colourists. Free.
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The Scotch Whisky Experience / a good bar
Learn the regions, or skip the tour and let a knowledgeable Old Town bar pour you a flight while the rain passes.
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Writers' Museum & a literary pub
Burns, Scott and Stevenson in a 17th-century close, then the Oxford Bar or a snug for a pint. This is a City of Literature, after all.
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Where to stay

1 Festival Sq, Edinburgh EH3 9SR, United Kingdom · marriott.com
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McLeod St, Edinburgh EH11 2NL, United Kingdom · tynecastleparkhotel.com
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Pollock Estate, 18 Holyrood Park Rd, Edinburgh EH16 5AY, United Kingdom · uoecollection.com
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The Roseate, 4 W Coates, Edinburgh EH12 5JQ, United Kingdom · roseatehotels.com
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Torphichen St, Edinburgh EH3 8JB, United Kingdom · premierinn.com
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Pollock Estate, 18 Holyrood Park Rd, Edinburgh EH16 5AY, United Kingdom · uoecollection.com
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27 Craigmillar Park, Edinburgh EH16 5PE, United Kingdom · kildonanlodgehotel.co.uk
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69 Bruntsfield Pl, Edinburgh EH10 4HH, United Kingdom · thebruntsfield.co.uk
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91 Newcraighall Rd, Edinburgh EH21 8RX, United Kingdom · premierinn.com
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134 Braid Rd, Edinburgh EH10 6JD, United Kingdom · braidhillshotel.com
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1, 11 Coates Gardens, Edinburgh EH12 5LG, United Kingdom · haymarket-hotel.co.uk
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38 Gardner's Cres, Edinburgh EH3 8DQ, United Kingdom · all.accor.com
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Fife Leisure Park, 4-12 Whimbrel Pl, Dunfermline KY11 8EX, United Kingdom · premierinn.com
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1 Morrison Link, Edinburgh EH3 8DN, United Kingdom · leonardo-hotels.com
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43 Craigmillar Park, Edinburgh EH16 5PD, United Kingdom · travelodge.co.uk
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43-45 Salisbury Rd, Edinburgh EH16 5AA, United Kingdom · thesalisburyhotel.co.uk
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1 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1AD, United Kingdom · radissonhotels.com
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100 Milton Rd E, Edinburgh EH15 2NP, United Kingdom · bestwestern.co.uk
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166 Fountainbridge, Edinburgh EH3 9RX, United Kingdom · hilton.com
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Quartermile, 36 Simpson Loan, Edinburgh EH3 9GG, United Kingdom · marriott.com
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26 Gilmore Pl, Edinburgh EH3 9NQ, United Kingdom · shouthotels.com
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31-33 Craigmillar Park, Edinburgh EH16 5PE, United Kingdom
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33 Leamington Terrace, Edinburgh EH10 4JS, United Kingdom · menzies-guesthouse.co.uk
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Restaurants & places to go

Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 12:00-23:30 Wikipedia: en:The Witchery by the Castle · 352 Castlehill, Edinburgh, EH1 2NF · thewitchery.com
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Cafe · Opening hours: PH,Mo-Su 09:00-17:00 · 5 Upper Bow, Edinburgh, EH1 2JN · hideoutcafe.co.uk
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British, Restaurant · dining & carvery Opening hours: Mo-Su 08:00-23:00 Features: outdoor seating · 55 South Gyle Broadway, Edinburgh, EH12 9LR · farmhouseinns.co.uk
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Coffee Shop, Cafe · Cosy cafe in the heart of Dean Village with specialty coffee and local cakes Opening hours: Mo-Su 08:30-15:30 Features: outdoor seating,… · deanvillage.com
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Italian, Deli, Cafe · Italian Bakery & Kitchen Opening hours: Mo-Sa 08:00-14:30 · 38 Easter Road, Edinburgh, EH7 5RG · facebook.com
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American, Chicken, Friture, Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:00-00:00 Features: takeaway · 130 Dundee Street, Edinburgh, EH11 1AF · wingstop.co.uk
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French, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Sa 08:00-23:00; Sa 09:00-23:00; Su 09:00-22:30 Features: vegan options · 51 Frederick Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1LH · cote.co.uk
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Indian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-We 08:00-23:00; Th-Fr 08:00-00:00; Sa 09:00-00:00; Su 09:00-23:00 Features: vegan options, step-free access · 3A St… · dishoom.com
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Pizza, Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Th 11:00-01:00; Fr-Sa 11:00-02:00; Su 11:00-01:00 Features: takeaway, delivery, vegetarian options · 155 Morningside… · dominos.co.uk
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Sandwich, Bakery, Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Fr 06:30-17:00; Sa 07:00-17:00; Su 09:00-15:00 Features: takeaway · 400 Morningside Road, Edinburgh, EH10 5HY · greggs.com
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Beef, Meat, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Th 17:30-22:00; Fr 12:30-15:30,17:30-22:00; Sa-Su 12:30-22:00 · 21-25 George Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2PB · beefbar.com
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Burger, Fast Food · Opening hours: 24/7 Features: outdoor seating, takeaway · 63 Craigentinny Avenue North, Edinburgh, EH6 7LH · mcdonalds.com
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Steak, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Th 12:00-22:00; Fr-Sa 12:00-22:30; Su 12:00-22:00 Features: outdoor seating · Queensferry Road, Edinburgh, EH4 6DY · millerandcarter.co.uk
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Chicken, Portuguese, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Sa 12:00-23:00; Su 12:30-18:00 Features: vegetarian options, step-free access · 32A Chambers Street,… · nandos.co.uk
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Mexican, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Th 12:00-23:00; Fr-Sa 12:00-23:00; Su 12:00-22:00 Features: vegetarian options, step-free access · 16 South St Andrew… · wahaca.co.uk
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Ice Cream, Ice Cream · Opening hours: Mo-Su 12:00-22:00 · 4 Castle Street, Edinburgh, EH2 3DW · benjerry.co.uk
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Noodle, Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Su 10:30-19:00 Features: takeaway · Princes Mall, Edinburgh, EH1 1BQ · chopstixnoodles.co.uk
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Asian, Fast Food · Opening hours: Mo-Th,Su 11:00-22:00; Fr-Sa 11:00-23:00 Features: takeaway, vegetarian options · St James Crescent, Edinburgh, EH1 3AD · itsu.com
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Chinese, Restaurant · Opening hours: Tu-Th 12:00-14:30,17:00-22:30; Fr-Sa 12:00-14:30,17:00-23:00; Su 13:00-22:30 · 10A Queensferry Street, Edinburgh, EH2 4PG · edinburghrendezvous.co.uk
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Seafood, Restaurant · Opening hours: Tu-Th 17:30-20:30, Fr,Sa 12:00-14:00, Fr,Sa 17:30-20:45; Su,Mo off · 19 Colinton Road, Edinburgh, EH10 5DP · finandgrape.com
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Japanese, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Fr 12:00-15:00, 17:00-22:30; Sa 12:00-22:30; Su 12:00-16:00, 17:00-21:00 Features: takeaway, delivery · 10 Gillespie… · harajukukitchen.co.uk
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Tapas, Spanish, Restaurant · Opening hours: We-Sa 12:00-22:00; Su 12:30-21:00 Features: outdoor seating, delivery · 262 Portobello High Street, Edinburgh,… · malvarosa.co.uk
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Sushi, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Tu off; We-Su 12:00-20:00 Features: takeaway · 9 West Register Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2AA · minami-sushi.co.uk
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Regional, Restaurant · Opening hours: Th 12:00-17:00; Fr-Sa 12:00-20:00; Su 12:00-17:00 Features: vegan options · 1 Lothian Road, Edinburgh, EH1 2AB · pulsehomecooking.com
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Fish And Chips, Fast Food · Opening hours: Tu-Su 17:00-22:00 Features: step-free access · 169 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh, EH10 4DG · saltwaterfishbar.com
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Malaysian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo off; Tu 17:00-21:30; We-Th,Su 12:00-15:00,17:00-21:30; Fr-Sa 12:00-15:00,17:00-22:00 Features: outdoor seating,… · soulvegan.uk
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Greek, Coffee Shop, Tea, Fries, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Tu off; We-Th 17:00-22:00; Fr-Sa 12:00-22:00; Su 12:00-21:00 · 133-135 East Claremont Street,… · spitaki.co.uk
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Curry, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Su 11:30-22:00 Features: takeaway, halal, step-free access · 31-33 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh, EH8 9BX · mosquekitchen.com
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Ch, Chinese, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo-Fr 12:00-22:00; Sa-Su 12:00-23:00; PH off · 6A Nicolson Street, Edinburgh, EH8 9DH · wuzhen.co.uk
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Steak House, Restaurant · Features: step-free access · 23 West Register Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2AA · thehawksmoor.com
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International, Restaurant · International restaurant · 1 Greenside Place, Edinburgh, EH1 3AA · cosmo-restaurants.co.uk
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Filipino, Fast Food · Opening hours: We-Su 17:00-22:00 · 21-23 Portland Place · aidaskitchen.co.uk
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Scottish, European, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo 18:00-21:00; Tu-Sa 12:00-14:30, 18:00-22:00; Su 12:00-14:30, 18:00-21:00 · 71-75 St Leonard's Street,… · blonderestaurant.co.uk
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Korean, Japanese, Restaurant · Opening hours: Tu-Sa 11:30-15:00, Tu-Sa 17:00-21:00 · 113 Buccleuch Street, Edinburgh, EH8 9NG · cafe-andamiro.co.uk
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Sri Lankan, Indian, Restaurant · Opening hours: Tu-Su 16:00-22:30 · 8 Montagu Terrace, Edinburgh, EH3 5QX · chennaismarina.com
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Breakfast, Pancake, Sandwich, Quiche, Cafe · Opening hours: Mo-Su 09:30-16:00 Features: outdoor seating, vegan options · 304 Lawnmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2PS · deaconshousecafe.co.uk
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Falafel, Kebab, Fish And Chips, Fast Food · Opening hours: Su-Th 12:00-22:30; Fr-Sa 12:00-03:00 Features: vegetarian options · 15 Bristo Place, Edinburgh, EH1… · elfalafel.com
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Vietnamese, Restaurant · Opening hours: 12:00-22:00 · 4,5 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh, EH10 4HN · hoianuk.com
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Mediterranean, Restaurant · Opening hours: Mo 16:30-23:00; Tu-Su 12:30-23:00 · 9-10 Commercial Street, Edinburgh, EH6 6JA · kezbanedinburgh.co.uk
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Thai, Fast Food · Opening hours: 12:00-22:30 Features: delivery · 148 West Granton Road, Edinburgh, EH5 1PE · koratthaitakeaway.com
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African, Coffee Shop, Brunch, Cafe · Opening hours: Tu-Su 10:00-18:00 Features: outdoor seating, vegan options, step-free access · 1 Dundee Street, Edinburgh,… · kubaedinburgh.com
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Nepalese, Indian, Fast Food · Opening hours: Tu-Su 17:00-22:30 · 25 Parsons Green Terrace, Edinburgh, EH8 7AF · momonepalese.com
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Turkish, Restaurant · Opening hours: Tu-Th 17:30-22:00; Fr-Sa 17:00-23:00; Su 17:00-22:00 Features: vegan options · 57 Elm Row, Edinburgh, EH7 4AQ · turkishrestaurantedinburgh.co.uk
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Deli, Cafe · Opening hours: Tu-Th 09:00-19:00; Fr,Sa 09:00-20:30; Su 10:00-16:00 Features: outdoor seating · 47 Newhaven Main Street, Edinburgh, EH6 4NQ · portofi.com
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Cake, Coffee Shop, Tea, Cafe · Opening hours: Mo-Su 08:00-18:00 · 132 Morningside Road, Edinburgh, EH10 4BX · roundsquareroastery.co.uk
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Airports

Edinburgh Airport (EDI) 7.3 mi to the centre
Ingliston, Edinburgh, SCT, GB — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 24 airlines (easyJet, Ryanair, Flybe, Jet2.com…) · direct flights to 88 destinations incl. London, Paris, Palma de Mallorca, Alicante, Barcelona… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 24 airlines, 88 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

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Castleton Farm 9.1 mi to the centre
SCT, GB
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Latch Farm Airstrip 11 mi to the centre
SCT, GB
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Regional airports

Further out, but often the cheapest way in — the airports the low-cost carriers use. Each links to its own town's guide for getting from there into the city.

Glasgow Airport (GLA) 48 mi to the centre
Glasgow, SCT, GB — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 26 airlines (Flybe, Jet2.com, easyJet, Transavia France…) · direct flights to 63 destinations incl. Arrecife, Palma de Mallorca, Tenerife, Alicante, Amsterdam… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 48 mi from Edinburgh · Flybe, Jet2.com, easyJet · Getting around Glasgow, Scotland →
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 26 airlines, 63 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

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Glasgow Prestwick Airport (PIK) 62 mi to the centre
Prestwick, South Ayrshire, SCT, GB — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 1 airline (Ryanair) · direct flights to 21 destinations incl. Alicante, Arrecife, Barcelona, Carcassonne, Dublin… (OpenFlights route data).
✈ Feeder airport · 62 mi from Edinburgh · Ryanair · Getting around Ayr, Scotland →
✈ Airlines & flight paths — 1 airline, 21 direct destinations

Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.

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Getting there by ferry

Cruise Liner Terminal
Ferry terminal · 3.8 mi from the centre
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Inchcolm
Ferry terminal · 8.4 mi from the centre
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Hawes Pier
Ferry terminal · 8.9 mi from the centre
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Rosyth Cruise Terminal
Ferry terminal · 12 mi from the centre
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Hawes Pier - Inchcolm Island
Ferry route · Maid of the Forth
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Where things are

Full geo-intelligence in Better Mapping →
Local search powered by Geoverts and geo-intelligence by Better Mapping base map © OSM

Photographs

When to go

Tourist season
May – September

The long-day, greener half of the year. August is the festival peak — thrilling but heaving and expensive, so decide whether you want the Fringe or want to avoid it.

Shoulder season
April, October

Cooler and quieter with decent light and lower prices — a good compromise for the sights without the August surge.

Worth avoiding
November – February (for weather), August (for crowds)

Winter is dark by mid-afternoon and properly cold and wet, though Hogmanay is a spectacle; August is wonderful but you must book everything far ahead.

Getting there & around

Getting there. Edinburgh Airport (EDI) is 30 minutes to the centre by tram or Airlink bus. Waverley station sits in the valley between the two towns, with trains to Glasgow (50 min), London (4h20) and across Scotland; long-distance buses use St Andrew Square nearby. By water: 4 ferry terminals within 12 mi (nearest: Cruise Liner Terminal, 3.8 mi); routes include Hawes Pier - Inchcolm Island.

Getting around. The centre is compact and walkable — steep and cobbled in places, so wear real shoes. Lothian Buses cover the rest well (exact change or contactless, tap on), and a tram runs from the airport along Princes Street. You will not need a car, and Old Town parking is a headache anyway.

Local transit

Bus, tram · Edinburgh's buses; Edinburgh Trams run airport to Newhaven. · Fares: Contactless tap or app · Airport: Airlink 100 bus or Edinburgh Trams to the city

Trains & rail

Rail operator
Scotland's national rail operator; Edinburgh–Glasgow runs every 15 minutes. · Glasgow, Scotland guide →
National rail

Coaches & shuttles

About three and a half hours to the Highlands. · Inverness, Scotland guide →
The 900 service every 15 minutes between Buchanan and St Andrew Square bus stations. · Glasgow, Scotland guide →
Overnight and daytime coaches, about nine hours; the train takes four and a half. · London, England (UK) guide →
Intercity coach

Private aviation

On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.

Broker · Any aircraft via operators worldwide · Global charter broker with 30+ offices; private jets, group charters and cargo.
Broker, marketplace · Operator network worldwide · Online charter marketplace, part of Directional Aviation; instant quotes.
Marketplace · Operator network · Transparent on-demand jet charter marketplace showing the operator and tail.
FBO, charter, management · Managed fleet · FBO network and management across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia-Pacific.
Fractional, jet card · Embraer Praetor, Bombardier Challenger & Global, Gulfstream · Fractional ownership and jet cards in North America and Europe.

Tours & experiences

Sightseeing