Bangkok is the capital of Thailand and the only real city in a country of small towns, home to roughly eleven million people and the hub through which most of Southeast Asia's travellers pass. It is hot, loud, gridlocked and among the most hospitable places on earth.
Rama I founded the city in 1782 as the capital of his new Chakri dynasty, moving the court across the Chao Phraya from Thonburi to an artificial island he called Rattanakosin, fifteen years after the Burmese had burned Ayutthaya. He built the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew there and gave the city a ceremonial name so long it sits in the record books; Thais shorten it to Krung Thep. The nineteenth-century kings, Mongkut and Chulalongkorn, played Britain against France, kept Siam uncolonised and modernised the canal city into one of roads and railways. The absolute monarchy ended in 1932; American money in the Vietnam years and the boom of the 1980s and 90s built the towers; the 1997 crisis, the coups of 2006 and 2014 and a decade of street protests followed. Roughly eleven million people now live in the metropolis, and more in the region around it.
The city sprawls flat across the delta on both banks of the Chao Phraya, with no single centre and a dozen. Rattanakosin, inside the old moat, holds the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun across the river, with backpacker Khao San Road just north and Chinatown's Yaowarat Road just south. Downstream, Silom and Sathorn are the banks and embassies with Lumphini Park between them; Siam is the mall district around the BTS interchange; Sukhumvit runs east for miles as the expat and nightlife spine, with Thonglor and Ekkamai its fashionable sois. Ari is the coffee-shop neighbourhood to the north, Chatuchak the weekend market beyond it, and Ratchada the newer Thai entertainment district. Thonburi, across the river, is the older, quieter half. Suvarnabhumi airport is to the east and Don Mueang to the north; between them, the eastern seaboard's factories supply the city.
Bangkok is the best eating city in Asia and possibly anywhere: street stalls with Michelin stars, boat noodles under a bridge, som tam pounded at a cart, khao man gai at dawn, and the food courts of the malls where office workers lunch for the price of a coffee. The malls themselves — Siam Paragon, ICONSIAM, CentralWorld — are the public squares in the heat. Muay Thai at Rajadamnern and Lumpinee is the national sport; football is the Thai League's Port, Bangkok United and Muangthong, and English clubs on every screen. The wat and the spirit house are part of daily life, Songkran in April turns the city into a water fight, and the monarchy is revered and legally protected. The nightlife is famous and mostly more ordinary than its reputation: rooftop bars, Thonglor's cocktail rooms, the night markets, and Khao San for those passing through.
The hard parts are the traffic, which is among the worst on earth and defeats the elevated railways where they do not reach; the heat, brutal from March to May, and a monsoon from June to October that floods the sois; and a winter smog of PM2.5 that closes schools some weeks. Scams are old and durable — the closed-temple tuk-tuk tour, the gem shop, the unmetered taxi — and the sex trade is visible in Patpong, Nana and Soi Cowboy. The politics are unstable, with two coups this century, and criticising the monarchy is a serious crime. The city is sinking, slowly. Against that, Bangkok is cheap, safe from violent crime by big-city standards, extraordinarily hospitable, connected to all of Southeast Asia by two airports, and possessed of an energy that makes most Western capitals feel asleep. Few people leave it without planning to return.
The Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho's reclining Buddha, the amulet market, the Democracy Monument and Khao San Road's backpacker strip. Dress for the temples and ignore anyone who says they are closed.
Yaowarat Road's gold shops and neon by day and the best street food in the city by night — Michelin-listed stalls, bird's nest, shark fin and grilled seafood. The MRT now stops at Wat Mangkon.
The financial district and the embassies, Lumphini Park for dawn tai chi and monitor lizards, Patpong's night market and go-go bars, and Sathorn's rooftop bars and serious restaurants.
The mall district around Siam BTS — Paragon, Siam Center, MBK's phone stalls, CentralWorld — with the Jim Thompson House and the Erawan Shrine among them. Where teenage Bangkok hangs out.
The long expat spine: Nana and Asok's nightlife, Phrom Phong's Japanese enclave and Emporium, then Thonglor and Ekkamai's cocktail bars, cafés and the restaurants where young Thai money eats.
A low-rise neighbourhood north of Victory Monument of coffee shops, small restaurants and shophouse bars, on the BTS. Where Bangkok's creative class lives when it can.
The west bank — Wat Arun, the canals of the old Venice of the East, ICONSIAM's mall, and the riverside hotels and Talat Noi's warehouses on the other side. Take the express boat.
The weekend market of some 15,000 stalls beside the park, Or Tor Kor's produce market next door, and the ordinary northern suburbs where most of the city actually lives.
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fine dining · 68 Lumpini Sub-Dustrict, 9 Soi Langsuan, Bangkok, Thailand 10330
Bangkok, 10, TH — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 98 airlines (Thai Airways International, Bangkok Airways, China Southern Airlines, Turkish Airlines…) · direct flights to 121 destinations incl. Hong Kong, Chiang Mai, Phuket, Seoul, Singapore… (OpenFlights route data).
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Bangkok, 10, TH — You board from the indoor waiting area — no need to plan for the weather. ✈ 7 airlines (Thai AirAsia, Nok Air, City Airways, Indonesia AirAsia…) · direct flights to 48 destinations incl. Phuket, Kuala Lumpur, Changcha, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai… (OpenFlights route data).
Routes and aircraft from OpenFlights (open data; a point-in-time snapshot). * = codeshare. Linked destinations open their own guidebook. Flight numbers are not in the open data — they come from the airline or a paid schedule feed.
Bang Yai, 12, TH
Samut Sakhon, 74, TH
Ferry terminal · 0.5 km from the centre
Ferry terminal · 0.7 km from the centre
Ferry terminal · 0.8 km from the centre
Ferry terminal · 1.2 km from the centre
Ferry terminal · 1.4 km from the centre
Ferry terminal · 1.8 km from the centre
Ferry route
Ferry route · Golden Mount Line
Ferry route · Golden Mount Line
Ferry route
Ferry route · บริษัท กรุงเทพธนาคม จำกัด
Ferry route · กรมเจ้าท่า
Ferry route · Thai Smile Boat Co., Ltd.
Ferry route
Rail operator
National rail
On-demand charter, jet cards and the semi-private scheduled carriers that serve this city.
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Sightseeing
Sightseeing